Interfacing Guide

Find the right interfacing for your fabric and project

Interfacing Types at a Glance

TypeWeightMethodBest For
Featherweight fusibleVery lightFusibleSheers, silk, delicate fabrics
Lightweight fusible wovenLightFusibleBlouses, shirt collars, facings
Medium fusible wovenMediumFusibleWaistbands, cuffs, structured garments
Heavyweight fusible wovenHeavyFusibleTailored jackets, coats, bags
Tricot fusible (knit)Light-MedFusibleKnits, stretch fabrics, bias-cut
Weft-insertion fusibleMediumFusibleTailoring, stable drape needed
Non-woven fusibleVariousFusibleCrafts, bags, budget projects
Silk organzaLightSew-inSheers, heat-sensitive fabrics
Hair canvasMedium-HeavySew-inTailored jackets, blazers
Wigan / HymoHeavySew-inCoat fronts, structured tailoring
Fusible fleeceMediumFusibleBags, placemats, soft structure
Decor Bond (Pellon 809)HeavyFusibleFabric baskets, stiff bags, crafts

How to Fuse Interfacing Correctly

  1. Pre-shrink — Soak fusible interfacing in lukewarm water for 10 min, air dry. Prevents bubbling later.
  2. Cut — Cut interfacing to match your pattern piece. Trim corners diagonally to reduce bulk.
  3. Place resin side down — The bumpy/shiny side goes against the wrong side of fabric.
  4. Use a press cloth — Damp muslin or cotton works best. Protects fabric and sole plate.
  5. Press (don't iron) — Lift and press 10-15 seconds per section. Don't slide the iron.
  6. Medium-high heat — Wool/cotton setting. Too low = won't bond. Too high = melts adhesive through.
  7. Cool flat — Let the piece cool completely on a flat surface before moving. Bond sets as it cools.
Test first! Always fuse a scrap of your actual fabric + interfacing before cutting your pattern. Check for bubbling, stiffness, and bleed-through.

When to Use Sew-In Instead of Fusible