Interfacing Types at a Glance
| Type | Weight | Method | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Featherweight fusible | Very light | Fusible | Sheers, silk, delicate fabrics |
| Lightweight fusible woven | Light | Fusible | Blouses, shirt collars, facings |
| Medium fusible woven | Medium | Fusible | Waistbands, cuffs, structured garments |
| Heavyweight fusible woven | Heavy | Fusible | Tailored jackets, coats, bags |
| Tricot fusible (knit) | Light-Med | Fusible | Knits, stretch fabrics, bias-cut |
| Weft-insertion fusible | Medium | Fusible | Tailoring, stable drape needed |
| Non-woven fusible | Various | Fusible | Crafts, bags, budget projects |
| Silk organza | Light | Sew-in | Sheers, heat-sensitive fabrics |
| Hair canvas | Medium-Heavy | Sew-in | Tailored jackets, blazers |
| Wigan / Hymo | Heavy | Sew-in | Coat fronts, structured tailoring |
| Fusible fleece | Medium | Fusible | Bags, placemats, soft structure |
| Decor Bond (Pellon 809) | Heavy | Fusible | Fabric baskets, stiff bags, crafts |
How to Fuse Interfacing Correctly
- Pre-shrink — Soak fusible interfacing in lukewarm water for 10 min, air dry. Prevents bubbling later.
- Cut — Cut interfacing to match your pattern piece. Trim corners diagonally to reduce bulk.
- Place resin side down — The bumpy/shiny side goes against the wrong side of fabric.
- Use a press cloth — Damp muslin or cotton works best. Protects fabric and sole plate.
- Press (don't iron) — Lift and press 10-15 seconds per section. Don't slide the iron.
- Medium-high heat — Wool/cotton setting. Too low = won't bond. Too high = melts adhesive through.
- Cool flat — Let the piece cool completely on a flat surface before moving. Bond sets as it cools.
When to Use Sew-In Instead of Fusible
- Heat-sensitive fabrics (vinyl, faux leather, sequined fabric)
- Textured fabrics where adhesive would show (velvet, seersucker)
- Sheers where fusible would be visible from the right side
- Tailored garments requiring roll and drape (hair canvas for jackets)
- Fabrics that water-spot or cannot be steamed
Further reading
Complete guide to fusible and sew-in interfacing. Find the right interfacing weight, type, and application method for your fabric and project.
Related tools
Frequently asked questions
Fusible or sew-in?
Fusible is faster and covers most of the table on this page; sew-in is there for the cases where heat is the problem or the drape has to stay soft. Silk organza and hair canvas are both listed as sew-in — organza for sheers and heat-sensitive fabrics, hair canvas for tailored jackets and blazers.
How do I match interfacing weight to fabric?
Match down, not up. The table pairs featherweight fusible with sheers and silk, lightweight fusible woven with blouses and shirt collars, medium with waistbands and cuffs, and heavyweight with tailored jackets, coats and bags. Interfacing heavier than the fabric shows through and stiffens the piece in a way that reads as a mistake.
What do I use on a knit?
Tricot fusible, which is itself a knit. The table lists it as light to medium weight and recommends it for knits, stretch fabrics and bias-cut pieces, because it moves with the fabric instead of locking it flat. Woven interfacing on a knit kills the stretch it was chosen for.
Does the same collar always take the same interfacing?
No, and that is why this page asks for both the fabric and the place it will be used before recommending anything. A collar in quilting cotton and a collar in wool coating want different things, and a waistband, a pocket flap and a bag base all want different things again.